After fitting the stock, replacing the handguard with a NOS WWII era piece (thanks GlockCop ), and applying some coats of pure dark tung oil, the rifle looks really nice. I had planned to replace the stock with USGI wood, but original Remington stocks are scarce and pricey so it will likely be replaced with a Keystone C stock if I ever run across one within my budget. Unfortunately it does have some light pitting throughout, but should still make a decent shooter. It has little wear and gauges at 1 at both the muzzle and throat.
The barrel is an original 12-41 dated Remington. It had a new replacement C stock installed, but was mostly correct otherwise.only the follower, buttplate, and rear sling swivel were not Remington and correct for the timeframe. The rifle is an earlier Remington from right around the timeframe the changeover occurred from Remington producing the standard M1903 to the M1903 "modified". They had received it as well as a SA 1903 and a SA Garand a couple weeks ago. It also stains fairly easily which is a plus.I just don't recommend using it on any recoil bearing surface because it would eventually fail, just like any wood glue.ĭarren, I picked the rifle up from SSP North. The foaming action allows it to penetrate and bond very well. After doing so, apply the bonding agent to the stock and the splice material and clamp in place. Coat the areas surrounding the repair with wax as this will prevent any adhesive that leaks from the repair from soaking into the surrounding grain. Be sure to leave the wood above the surface oversized.this will help blend the repair and lessen the appearance of any glue line that might be present. After choosing the wood for your splice material, form a dovetail that fits the damaged area on the stock. The grip was made in Korea so I have no idea what species of wood it was. Black walnut would have been better, but the grain was similar enough that it isn't obvious. In this case I used a piece of a spare repro M1A1 grip that I had on hand. The next step is to cut the an appropriate sized piece of wood to use for the splice repair. Luckily the rifle did not appear to have been shot with the stock installed or there would have been much more significant damage to the wood. The tang acts like a wedge upon recoil and easily splits or chips the stock.
1903's are particularly vunerable to damage in this area and must not have tang to wood contact. The chip was minor and was caused by forcing the action into the stock without properly inletting the tang area first. I've done quite a few minor stock repairs, but I am not or have I ever claimed to be a woodworker so take my advice with a grain of salt. The basic steps below will pretty much apply to any splice repair on any portion of a stock as long as it is not an area prone to direct recoil (areas that are to be exposed to direct recoil will require a stronger bonding agent like Acraglas or Devcon epoxy). This was my first attempt at this type or repair and it is fairly simple. This doesn't how-to doesn't apply to more serious tang cracks or splits only minor cosmetic blemishes. I'm sure most of you have encountered at least one firearm with similar damage so I figured I'd post up a how-to for a minor chip repair. Hey guys.I recently picked up a Remington M1903 that required some stock fitting and a minor repair due to a chip at the tang.
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